We left Vietnam having really enjoyed it, the people and the very interesting and quite unlucky history. We did not really know what to expect in Cambodia other than maybe more of the same. What we have found in our stay of just under a week is a country that is harder hit, poorer but almost friendlier and more welcoming as the country changes and updates itself going forward. And steeped in a lot more ancient history than Vietnam that has miraculously survived as many international and civil wars over hundreds of years and as recently as 1998. Amazing that just over 10 years it was civil war here.
But as a result we met and saw a hardworking, friendly, kind and helpful group which really enhanced our stay. Over the time here we have visited ancient temples, ancient towns, fed monkeys, ridden elephants, cycled through villages, visited people and farmers in the countryside, visited the floating villages by boat (complete with floating churches, schools and basketball pitches!), seen houses on stilts 50 feet high which have no water around but will have water at their door in the wet season, seen huge catfish, had snakes around our necks, ridden Tuk-tuks, seen Cambodian dancing and visited an orphanage of 35 Cambodian children. Quite a lot in a week.
Of the temples we have visited a whole range of temples from the 1000 odd temples in the area. From Angkor Wat, the main temple in the area built in 4 sq km’s of grounds, to a small one that we cycled past in a village with people living around it - a mere 750mx750m! Angkor Wat was built around 1110 and was meant to represent “Heaven on Earth”. There are 37 levels of Heaven and 32 levels of Hell. The ground is Level zero. All the stairs up from that are very steep and hard to climb as getting up to heaven was meant to be very hard! We got up to level 25, which was as high as you could go without a step ladder!! Not that that was a fair representation of our heavenly worth!! When you go to Angkor Wat, from the entrance where you walk in across a wide moat, that used to have 1 million crocodiles in, to the whole visit, you can just imagine it would have been hugely impressive – even more so than now – which was still very impressive. Angkor Wat is the biggest temple in Asia and just stunning – you have to be there – the pictures do not do it justice and we spent a lot of time wondering what it looked like in its heyday.
We have visited Buddhist temples where the King who built it was the Budhas representative on earth and his face was sculpted into all the buildings, to Hindu temples where there are 3 gods worshipped (Siva – (the most powerful), Visnuk and Praman) and 4 pools of water everywhere representing the 4 elements (Fire, Earth, Air and Water) that were also worshipped to bring good health, crops and everything else. All of the temples were square in pattern with amazing sculptures telling stories of Chinese visitors and life in the times they were built – we saw a Chinese umbrella carving, the Chinese trading with the locals as well as heaven and earth representations. We also visited temples that are still being recovered from the jungle – with one that the King dedicated to his Mother that was very impressive and wealthy with lots of gold, diamonds and jewels apparently in its heyday in 1115 or so – but it had softwood trees and roots growing all over the monuments and temples. When the temples were used there was no forest around – then the forest engulfed all of the temples around and now they are being cleared and parts of the temples being replaced and rebuilt.
We also saw Angkor Tom, the capital city of the Khmer empire at its height. Although many temples in the area were built from 8/900 AD it was not until 1100 that the power base of the Khmer empire was at its peak. This included Cambodia of today, most of Thailand, Vietnam, and some of Southern China. So pretty big. It took 200 years to fall apart as country after country invaded it – with the Monguls finally breaking it up into smaller pieces in the 1400’s. During the peak of power the capital was mainly at Angkor Tom – a city about 12 sq. km’s with a couple of huge temples – Buddhist ones in the city – the Hindus had to live out of the city and attend Angkor Wat temple just half a mile away. About 1m people lived in the city, where there was also a Royal Palace complete with the biggest swimming pool made – even now as it is around 200m long – and was meant for the use of the 3000 concubines the King had. The king had his own pool next to it. The city also had its own impressive Olympic Stadium complete with Olympic flame statue!
The kids were very good and quite enjoyed the big temples. The boys found Angkor Wat amazing – Megan was so well behaved and earned a horse ride in Angkor Wat around the lake as a reward for good behaviour. As temples go they are by far the most interesting we have seen and we are lucky to have experienced them. Feeding the monkeys with bananas and riding the elephant on a proper old fashioned seat, made it all the more fun for the whole family.
Our other activities have helped us learn a lot about Cambodia and get to know the locals, and feel as though we have got under the skin of the country so much more than Vietnam. Your experiences are mainly based on the people you meet and the stories they tell – and for that Cambodia has been an experience.
The 3 most interesting people trips we took were cycling through the villages, going by boat through the floating villages and visiting the orphanage. We felt a real warmth from the people. Very relaxed and laid back in life, you get the feeling that Cambodians are happy cruising along in life, as long as they have enough food to live and no pressures. It certainly did not have the fell of Vietnam of striving to get somewhere! Maybe Cambodia is just happy to have peace and just being is a very happy existence – anyway it certainly gave us a feeling that they are generally happy people. And this despite the poverty that we saw in and heard about through the villages and at the orphanages. Cambodia is definitely poorer than any of its neighbours – and this from a country that had an empire and power 500 years ago.
It was great to meet up with John Palfrey, who was on sabbatical at an orphanage in Siem Reap. John works for Amex in the personal travel dept and had helped Ian plan and book our whole trip. So despite spending many hours on the phone we had never met John. John has been there for around 4 of his 6 months and is helping the orphanage. He showed us around where they house 35 kids between (4 months and 16 yrs old) and feed up to 100 each day. Our kids played football with the boys which they really enjoyed and Megan played with all the girls. A great cause and one we hope to help in the future. As they are about to expand to a second facility – resources are stretched so I am sure john and the other volunteer helpers are making a big difference to many kids. Keep it up.
The Government of Cambodia is democratic with 25-odd parties – but the main party CCP – which is filled with a number of ex-Khmer Rouge people – still holds control – and the government appears to be friendly with Vietnam communist party. There is currently a mini war with Thailand over a temple on the border which the World heritage agreed was Cambodian some years ago which the Thai people claim was given back to them in a recent agreement – with a previous Thai prime minister – Shinawatra (the ex-Man City owner!) - who is now a finance adviser to the Cambodian government!!
Cambodia was more enjoyable than Vietnam – we are not quite sure why – probably because of the more friendly people – but that is unfair to the Vietnamese – as they were all very friendly too. Maybe it was the greater feeling for hope that we warmed to. Anyway we definitely have Cambodia on our list to come back to!!
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